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Fights Between Dogs -- How to Avoid and Stop Them
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Following are excerpts from a recent PetLife article
(part 1), a summary of a video program from trainer
Ian Dunbar (part 2), and quick tips for avoiding and
stopping fights between dogs (parts 3 and 4).
Also, be sure to see last week's tip about Bite
Inhibition. You can find it on the PAW website under
Pet Tips. Also, watch for next week's tip, which will
cover ways to reduce aggression between dogs in the
same household.
1. From "Ready to Rumble" by Cherie Langlois in the
February 2003 issue of PetLife:
While some breeds developed for fighting or protection
may be more included to quarrel, dogs of any breed can
get into fights. "It depends more on the dog's
temperament, training and socialization," said trainer
Adam Katz of Austin, Texas, owner of
www.Dogproblems.com. A dog who is not well-socialized
might have dominant body language and stare other dogs
right in the eyes, which is perceived as a direct
challenge.
It's a mistake to assume your dog won't fight. "The
issue isn't whether your dog is or isn't nice; it's
how the two dogs' temperaments interrelate," Katz
said.
Said Trish King, animal behavior and training director
for the Marin (California) Humane Society: "These
dogs aren't necessarily aggressive when they're off
leash, but tend to lunge, bark and posture when
they are on leash."
Avoid scary conflicts by staying alert and keeping
your dog under a short leash and voice control at all
times. Some owners take the additional step of not
allowing their dog to look or sniff at another dog.
Teaching a dog early on that he can't visit with every
canine he meets is one good way owners can prevent
leash aggression. Teach the dog not to pull on the
leash, and to sit and wait for permission before
greeting another dog. Basic obedience training and
behavior modification with positive reinforcement can
help prevent fights. Katz said, "If the dog is
looking at me and paying attention, he canUt engage
another dog."
Along with leashing and good training, owners can
avoid conflicts by keeping their pets from roaming,
neutering young dogs before one year of age, and
socializing their dogs during the critical puppyhood
stage between six to eight weeks of age.
Some fights occur with little warning, but often you
can spot behaviors that signal trouble ahead, so use
that opportunity to keep a fight from breaking out.
Watch for these behavioral cues to see if a fight is
imminent:
* A hard, unwavering, targeted stare.
When facing an oncoming aggressive dog, you might
shout "NO!" to repel him. If the dog continues to
approach, drastic measures may be needed. Katz
suggests owners carry a stun gun, which they should
aim into the air, not at the dog. The stun gun hits
sound frequencies that dogs hear, which can stop a dog
from fighting. Another technique is to spray cayenne
pepper at the dog's nose and eyes (however, pepper spray can cause
injury and further anger an aggressive dog). King prefers a
harmless citronella spray repellent called Direct
Stop.
If a fight ensues, keep in mind that dogs tend to
establish a social hierarchy soon after they meet.
Scuffles to determine top dog can involve heavy
barking and growling. However, real fights can take
place, in which a dog latches onto another dog or
otherwise injures him. Intense fights can be silent.
If you intervene, do not put your hands anywhere near
the dogs' heads or get between them to avoid getting
bitten yourself. If another person is available, King
recommends each person picks a dog and grabs its tail
or hind legs, pulling back and up until the dog
loosens its grip. The grabber should then move away
quickly. There is some risk, since dogs will
sometimes turn and bite whoever is hanging on to them.
Prevention, of course, is the best approach.
"Prevention -- keeping your dog safe and providing
good leadership -- is the most important job a dog
owner has," said King.
2. From Dr. Dunbar's Video "Dog Aggression:
Fighting":
Dogs react fast, and sometimes get angry toward each
other, just like people. The difference is that dogs
respond immediately then, typically, forget about it
once the disagreement is resolved.
Some 90% of a puppyUs time is spent biting other
puppies. This is part of developing bite inhibition,
in which young dogs learn how to control their jaws.
The optimal time for dogs to develop bite inhibition
is between two and four and a half months of age.
Dogs need free play as puppies with puppies and mother
dog to develop their bite inhibition. (See last
week's Tip on Bite Inhibition, which is posted on the
PAW website under Pet Tips.)
Dunbar cites some general principles:
* Dogs initiate fighting when they do not feel secure
around other dogs.
* The top dog knows he's boss and usually is able
assert rank within 3 seconds. Usually, the top dog
does not have to resort to actual fighting to prove
his point.
* Middle-ranking order male dogs feel insecure and in
need of proving something.
* Females have the potential to engage in fights, and
to be as tenacious as males. When females fight with
female or male dogs, often it's to gain a possession.
* Dogs perceive neutered dogs as less of a threat.
With male dogs, neutering reduces the chances dogs
will bite and neutering is linked with a reduction in
several kinds of aggression.
* Dogs may also display aggression to dogs who
approach them outside, especially when their owner
gets tense in the presence of other dogs and yanks on
the dog's collar. For example, the dog may be
communicating to the other dog: "Go away! When dogs
like you appear, my owner gets upset and gives me a
punishment."
* Dogs growl at younger dogs in an attempt to put
youngsters in their place. By the way, many male dogs
have testosterone peaks between 10 months and one year
of age, explaining why they seem more hyper. Dogs can
smell testosterone.
* When dogs growl at younger dogs, this leads to the
development of active appeasement on the part of the
lower-ranking dog. The lower-ranking dog learns to
show deference, which signals that he understands and
respects the hierarchy. So then, typically, the
older/more dominant dog will let the youngster play.
* Playing is more than having fun for dogs; it's a
way to compete and a way to establish rank.
Positive steps you can take:
* Socialize your pup. You can keep him nearby when
you're home by tethering him to you with a leash.
Praise the dog whenever he does good, and whenever he
stops aggressive look or other undesirable behavior.
* Most people ignore good behavior. But it is
important to praise and reward good behavior in order
to encourage the dog to repeat it. Solicit and praise
good behavior, instead of punishing the bad.
* Dunbar suggests teaching the command, "GENTLY,"
which can be useful in diverting dogs from a fight.
"SIT" and "OFF" are also important commands. It is
important to be able to redirect your dog's attention
to you -- and thus away from another dog who may be
engaging in challenging eye contact and aggressive or
otherwise undesirable behaviors.
* Do not tense up with the leash or yell during the
approach of another dog. That can make your dog
associate the sight of another dog with punishment.
* Remember that timing is everything, and that it is
crucial for you to develop the ability to redirect
your dogUs attention back to you.
By the way, Dunbar cautions against using
tranquilizers, which affect bite inhibition (a learned
behavior). You want the dog to be able to inhibit his
own bite.
Some people attend "growl classes" with their
aggressive dogs, at which they work on moderating the
dogUs reactive behavior. The dogs wear muzzles and
the owners keep them on leash until the end of the
classes, at which point participants work the dogs off
leash. DunbarUs video included footage from a "growl"
class.
3. Tips for avoiding fights:
* Behavior modification work with your dogs is
essential. Be sure to watch for next week's tip,
"Aggression Between Dogs in the Same Household."
* Never allow any dog to achieve dominant status over
any adult or child. If dogs always know their social
ranking and are never allowed to challenge people,
they will usually be good family members, advises Gary
L. Clemons, DVM.
* Feed dogs in separate areas, rooms or in their own
crates.
* Do not toss treats out to dogs. Instead, have each
dog obey a command, such as sit, individually, and
give the treat right after he/she obeys.
* If any chance dogs will fight over toys, don't give
the dogs toys unless they are in separate locations.
* Do not give dogs toys that fanatically excite them.
* Carry a small, automatic umbrella. You can pop this
open between your dog and an incoming one of you fear
a problem. It provides a surprise and a hiding place.
* Some dog handlers carry water pistols and water
cannons.
* One Great Dane owner uses a cookie sheet to deter
dogs from engaging in a fight. She has slipped the
pan between the aggressing dogs, as well as banged on
it to create a distracting noise.
* One multiple dog owner always keeps a sturdy buckle collar
on the dogs, which provides a sturdy handle if needed.
* Don't permit tug-of-war or aggressive wrestling.
These games can quickly escalate into a fight.
* Don't give dogs rawhides, pig hooves or other
highly coveted goodies. At the very least, don't
allow dogs free access to them. The dogs are likely
to fight over them.
4. Ideas for breaking up a fight:
The way fighting dogs should be separated depends on
the individual dogs as well as their typical breed
characteristics. For example, pit bull specialists
advise use of a strong "breaking stick" inserted into
the mouth of bull-breed dogs, but not for other kinds
of dogs.
Be aware that a dog embroiled in a fight might bite
someone who grabs him or who comes between the
fighting dogs.
* Try pouring water over fighting dogs. Turning a
hose on the dogs works better than dumping a container
on them.
* Some dogs will stop fighting if you squirt them
with a water bottle filled with vinegar, which breaks
their concentration. Some folks use water cannons,
citronella spray, pepper spray (note: pepper spray, or
mace, can cause injury and worsen the situation), airhorns or even stun
guns.
* Avoid putting your hands near the dogs' heads or
getting between them to avoid getting bitten yourself.
If another person is available, Trish King recommends
each person picks a dog and grabs its tail or hind
legs, pulling back and up until the dog loosens its
grip. The grabber should then move away quickly.
There is some risk, since dogs will sometimes turn and
bite whoever is hanging on to them.
Another technique for breaking up a fight when two
person are available: One person attempts to
immobilize the hindquarters of the dog while grasping
the collar from behind. For certain breeds such as
pit bull breeds, it is recommended to wedge a
wedge-shaped breaking stick into the side of the dog's
mouth. Before attempting this, study up on the
information about breaking up dog fights on
www.pbrc.net.
Also see the tipsheets:
* Bite Inhibition: An Important Part of Socialization
http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_BiteInhibition.php
and
* Avoiding and Preventing Dog Bites
For more Dog Tips and other information about pet
care, adoption and the work PAW does, visit our
website at: www.paw-rescue.org
Stamp Reminder: Please use the "Spay-Neuter Pets"
U.S. Postage Stamps.
Partnership for Animal Welfare, Inc.
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| Last Updated: December 08, 2011 (LET) | PawSupport | |