Guarding and Showing Aggression Over Resources
The following article by Sarah Wilson comes from GOOD
OWNERS, GREAT PETS. For more excellent advice, check
out www.GreatPets.com.
Resource Guarding
There are dogs who growl and snap when approached
while chewing a toy, eating or lying on a favorite
spot. These dogs are guarding what they consider to
be a valuable resource. That's why this type of
behavior can be called "resource guarding."
Possible Causes:
Some dogs are prone to this because of temperament
tendencies. Others have learned to be this way. For
example, if he has been "attacked" by humans after he
drops something such as a shoe. How, then, can he
prevent your wrath? Dropping it didn't work. Some
dogs will then choose aggression in an attempt to back
you off. This is painfully familiar to many owners.
This behavior can be a part of a general confusion
about who leads and who follows in the home.
Recommendations:
First of all, remove anything he may protect.
If you can't remove the item (such as a bed or couch),
block access to it by closing a door or putting up a
gate. Keep him on lead in the house so you can more
easily control him.
Teach him to "Leave It" in a positive, fun way.
Do NOT make this into a battle. Make him think this
command is an opportunity for a reward, not a chance
to lock horns with you. Always start teaching this
command with boring objects so that praise and treats
will be the obvious choice.
Reward spitting things out.
Much of this sort of aggression is man made. People
get angry when their dog takes things, then fail to
give him a way to please them. They create a
situation where, once something is in their dog's
mouth, there is no way for the dog to win. This can
force the dog to start defending himself.
Here's the rule: Once something is in your dog's
mouth, it is TOO LATE to teach him not to take it. The
only thing you can teach him now is to spit it out
promptly. Therefore, reward spitting it out.
Take then Give.
Early on, practice "Out" with your pup. Walk up when
he is chewing a toy. Say "Out" and take the toy.
Praise him for his brilliance. Give him a treat.
Return the toy and leave him alone. A few weeks of
this once or twice a day and your dog will want you to
come and take him toys.
Neuter him!
The most serious bites come from intact male dogs.
Make the neuter appointment today!
Ignore him.
Do not look at or speak to him unless he is working
for you and even then, keep attention short, sweet and
intense after which you ignore him again. You want him
to want your attention, not constantly be getting more
of it then he desires. Leave him wanting more.
Redirect him.
If he is pawing you then keep him on lead and work his
demanding self. Every time he paws you have him "Sit,
down, Sit, down -- come, stay, OK" -- with little
praise. He may well decide that a nap is a better
idea.
Teach him to move out of the way.
This will help with his understanding that you lead
and he follows. If it is safe to do, simply shuffle
your feet into him (no kicking) until he moves then
praise him. Or leave a lead on him and guide out of
the way then praise.
He owns nothing!
He has no "favorite" chair or toys that are "his" --
everything in the house is yours. If he is protective
over anything, a bowl or a toy, remove it until his
attitude has improved.
All of his time must be spent on the floor.
The higher up he is in the room, the higher up he is
in his head. Nope, his place is on the floor. Teach
him to get off things on command.
Always praise him cheerfully for obeying. If need be,
close off rooms and/or leave a lead on him so you can
manage him more easily. Always praise him cheerfully
for obeying --- that is important!
Confine him daily.
Daily crating is a generally good routine for this
sort of dog and keeps him out of trouble in many ways.
Even if you are home with him, crate him for several
hours every day. [Note: many behaviorists advise that
it can be counter-productive to crate a dog more than
5 hours a day over the long term.]
Increase his exercise.
This is a great deal of change for him. Exercise will
help relieve stress and release excess energy. Be sure
to play games that promote cooperation and control --
skip tug-of-war, wrestling and chasing after him.
We do NOT recommend:
Going to battle over a squeaky toy. Your dog, no
matter how small, can injure you. When a dog shows he
is ready to battle a human, we already know that he is
misinformed and confused. We need to straighten out
that confusion prior to discussing that unwanted
aggression. If you attack him for threatening to
attack you, you may well escalate his aggression.
And, even if you "win" he may decide to fight sooner
and harder next time.
What he needs is education, not attack.
Anytime -- ANYTIME -- your dog threatens you, hands-on
help from a qualified professional is the best next
step. Aggression is complicated and, if it isn't
dealt with quickly, can get worse. In the end, it can
lead to the death of your dog assuredly as any
disease.
Common Mistakes:
Further Advice:
Seek any and all help, including from your
veterinarian.
Copyright 2002 by Sarah Wilson.
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care, adoption and the work PAW does, visit our
website at:
Partnership for Animal Welfare, Inc.
* Thinking it is OK for him to have a chair or a toy
that is "his."
* Assuming he won't bite.
* Avoiding the problem rather than dealing with it.
* Leaving toys that you know he is protective over out
because "he likes them so much."
* Thinking this behavior will get better with time.
* Allowing denial of the problem to put other people
at risk.
www.paw-rescue.org
P.O. Box 1074, Greenbelt, MD 20768